Cape Town South Africa 1999
Cisco Network Academy
I was very fortunate to be asked to teach the first Networking Academy class in Sub-Saharan Africa. The class started with 19 young adult students and three months later 18 certified as Cisco Certified Networking Associates (CCNA) on their first effort. Each went on to positions in the industry and now work in a variety of fields throughout South Africa. Unfortunately, one died part way through the course. Another has since passed away.
One of the graduates, Setotolwane "Joe" Phago, (top of stairs) went on to become the first black Cisco Certified Networking Expert (CCIE #7105) from Sub-Saharan Africa. CCIE is one of the highest, most difficult industry certifications in the information technology field.
Packet magazine article - A short article about our trip and students.
Daniel's Story - A short piece about Daniel Sedibeng (second from top in picture) that appeared in Cisco's Annual Report.
Observations from the field
The following are from emails I sent back to the States during my trip to a distribution list of employees, coworkers, family and friends. They do a pretty good job of documenting my trip, my experience and my falling in love with South Africa.
The request for help was posted at the end of April, 1999 on a Cisco Academy site that they needed an experienced CCNA instructor at the Houwteq facility in South Africa in on June 15th to finish a for course series that had not gone so well up to this point. This cape Town Cisco Academy project was a Nelson Mandela / Cisco joint effort to train "traditionally disadvantaged" students with university degrees but little prospects for a career. The actual employer would be what is now the Department of Communications.
From: Bob Lewis
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 1999 7:43 PM
To: netacads-comm@external.cisco.co
Subject: URGENT - ACADEMY INSTRUCTOR NEEDED IN SOUTH AFRICA
SPECIAL REQUEST!!..SPECIAL REQUEST!!....SPECIAL REQUEST!!...SPECIAL REQUEST!!...
The South African Government have asked us to see if we can locate an experienced instructor to teach for approximately 6 months at a local academy near Cape Town. This academy is unique in that it is directly sponsored by the Ministry of Communications (MoC) who pay for the students' tuition and accommodation. It's importance can be judged by the fact that the plan is for either Nelson Mandela or Thebo Mbeke (Deputy President) to formally launch the academy.
Their Regional Academy is the University of Pretoria and 2 instructors have already been trained in Semester 1 but the MoC in South Africa would like to appoint a more experienced instructor to assist in steering the course in the short term.
All expenses would be paid by the South African government by whom you would be employed as a consultant.
Requirements
If you can meet the following requirements and would like to be considered, please contact me by email stating when you passed Semester 1 & 2 and how much experience you have in teaching networking.
TRAINING: Semester 1 & 2 minimum
AVAILABILITY: Immediate
EXPERIENCE: The more the better
Regards Bob Lewis
06-21-99 - Maybe I should be getting nervous
To: Colin Van Schalkwyk (my contact at Cisco)
I still haven't heard any reply from my last communication - replying to Mateli Mpuntsha's request on compensation.
I'm still feeling a little out of the loop here. We are creeping up on deadline again and I still don't know some basic things like:
Who is lining up the Air transportation? If they are, who do they use - so I can figure out how much material I can take with me? Is there an address that I can ship stuff to?
Do I need any Visas, work permits, etc? Do I do that from this end? I have my passport. Should I contact the South African embassy?
You mentioned earlier that I should plan to be in-country by July 5. When do classes start? Are the labs set up and functioning? I've basically been off since 6/10 because that was the original departure date that I was given. I could, therefore, spend a little time getting "stuff" organized - if necessary.
Bob
06-30-99 - Fatal Snag
To: Shirleen van Reenen (Assistant to the Director General)
We may have just hit the fatal snag. I contacted the SA Embassy in California (the closest). I don't have a name. It was the Hollywood (I think), California. Telephone: (323) 651-0902. I was then referred to the Consular Section. The woman was very polite but firm that the visa process will take 2-3 months and exceptions were never made. She is mailing me the application forms (they don't FAX them).
Her suggestion is that I copy them when done and send a copy directly to you so that you can complete the schools portion and forward to Pretoria. She will then complete her portion on the originals and send them to Pretoria and if the the two sets get together it might save a couple weeks.
I tried to explain the timing issue and the significance of the program but she indicated that the process does not allow exceptions.
Bob
I'm hoping you have some alternative on your end, because this seemed pretty final.
07-1-99 - Some Daylight
From: Shirleen van Reenen
To: Bob
Dear Bob
The Home Affairs visa SA office can make an exception with regard to your visa application. We can request and apply for a visa in SA and get the approval. I will apply on your behalf and we will than have to meet you at the airport to give you the visa when you arrive. Please provide the attached info for your application.
According to our Department of Home Affairs the visa application should take 10 days. PLS send us the contact details of the person you have been dealing with in California. We would like to pass this info on to our contact person at Home Affairs SA.
Kind Regards, Shirleen
So it looks like I'm traveling on my nickel (to be reimbursed), without papers 12,000 miles even though both the US State Department and South African Embassy insist this can't be done and that I could find myself jailed until a return flight can be arranged. What could go wrong?
07-02-99 - First Report to Distribution List
I am hoping that this is not too premature. It looks like everything is coming together for me to leave on Wednesday (7/7/99) for South Africa to teach Cisco Internetworking (CCNA). It looks like I will return on about October 1st.
Cisco (CSCO) is an international firm based in California that makes Routers and Switches that allow networks to communicate (with security). They are the backbone of the Internet.
The last four weeks has been a nightmare trying to keep this project afloat. Bureaucracy is bureaucracy, but nothing compares to dealing with one 12,000 miles away (10 time zones) - particularly one that has a change of government in the middle of the process. I will be working for the South African government during my stay. The last snag has been the Work Visa. I hope its waiting for me at the airport in Cape town - as compared to a jail cell. All that said, and assuming that everything goes OK between now and Wednesday, I am really looking forward to this opportunity.
I think the purpose and potential of the project is tremendous. Cisco has made an exceptional commitment to this project by setting up not only this CCNA / CCNP training program but by setting up a CCIE testing lab (one of just a few in the world - only 2 in North America?). I'm hoping to get exposure to people, facilities and equipment that wouldn't be available to me at any price here. Due to the delays, I haven't been able to book my flight yet. Many of the carriers that connect through Europe are now booked so I suspect I'll be learning how the rest of the world travels. I just hope I can get a nice seat by the camp fire. Its at these times I begin to wonder if I'm too damned old for this kind of thing.
For those of you doing business with BL&A, Dave Warner will be managing the Yakima operations - to the extent anyone manages Yakima. Brett Larson will cover Puget Sound and work with Dave. Jerri will be writing checks - this thought scares me more than any other aspect of the trip. I can still be reached at bob@bla.com.
Bob
07-09-99 - Got to South Africa
It is very beautiful. The Center is a 10+ year old Space Center that is abandoned. We rattle around like three peas in a gallon jug.
Three long flights of stairs - no elevator.
I should be connected Monday. Will email more then. Jerri - I may try to call tonight.
07-10-99 Hey I made it!
Well I got here. Landed Friday at 9:15am - Work Visa met me in customs. It took two minutes to clear customs (20 minutes in line) but went very smooth. You pickup your luggage after you go through document control - then walk out a door marked nothing to declare. I'm assuming there was someone to stop me if they wanted to, but I didn't have to talk to anyone. Never even saw a sign describing what I should declare. I suspect getting out might not be so lax??
Weathers been great. Cape Town area climate seems like San Francisco - remember its the middle of winter here. No need for a coat yet - good thing. My apartment is right on the harbor of Gordon's Bay (25 miles from Cape Town). Reminds me a lot of Spanish coast, Oregon coast, etc. Except that we are surrounded by miles of shanty towns - slightly nicer than Juarez (or Nuevo Lerado) but they go on for ever. One of the original Black Townships is across the highway from Gordon Bay.
Great students. Very bright, very soft spoken (tough on an old fart going deaf). Sometimes very innocent - they come primarily from rural areas and economically disadvantaged backgrounds. One student asked if I spoke Afrikaans and seemed surprised when I said no. She then asked "Don't you ever talk to the black people in America?". She seemed a little embarrassed when I explained we all speak English.
I had to explain who Boeing is to the class and what they do.
About half are MCSEs the rest will be before they finish my course. You won't believe the multi-media lab they are setting up now for these folks next year.
The facility is hard to explain - it is SA's old space program facility. It is 25 miles in the mountains - looks like Leavenworth (mountains, apple orchards, vineyards, Dutch communities instead of Swiss). The facility is basically empty (8-10 staffers mainly security & maintenance). It could be right out of any of the James Bond movies. It is relatively new (under 20 years), huge, the buildings look like a school (from the air) - some with the entire roofs able to slide away. Huge hangers (I've seen 4) the size of 2-3 high school gyms. My class room is a 25(w) x 40(d) x 20(h) foot concrete walls & ceiling that opens into a hanger and lines up with a 5 ton overhead crane. The sliding bolt is on the outside of the door...... I keep telling them that I would take some of the rooms they have here and divide each into 6 spacious classrooms.
One of the staffers told me the design was to conceal the facility from satellites - then added Russian satellites kind of sheepishly. Ok... Apparently they could house 4 fully operational devices - but never launched one. The new government decided they didn't need to be in the spy satellite business.
The building is 3 floors - each 18-20 high. And not an elevator in the place. I was so damn tired the first day I thought I might die. Nothing is easy here - I have to walk up to the 2nd floor, then about 150' down a hall, back down to the first floor to get to my classroom. I have no idea why we can't walk through the first floor area there.
They have decontamination rooms down the hall from my class. Scared the shit out of me Monday early as I'm wandering around looking for a restroom - the room was dark (hell the whole building is dark) and this Dutch voice asked if I needed any help. Damn neared needed CPR.
Another thing about Cape Town is that most buildings don't have heat - like my apartment. On the rainy days, you just dress accordingly.
Having a good time. Making an impact. Learning to drive from the right-side of the car on the left-side of the road. Everything is moved. You can tell its me coming - I'm the guy that turns on his windshield washers when he wants to turn left.
Someday I'll tell you about renting a car here. I have a brand new Toyota Corolla (no shit) it is two upgrades and costs 6,200 Rand per month - about $1,000. Visualize, if you will, that I had to choose my car by seeing if I could get in. It took two agencies and probably half a dozen no-gos. I was starting to look at the Mercedes and eating the difference. As it is I'm way over budget on this car. Everyone else uses VW Golfs. The way I understand this full coverage insurance is that it only applies if there is another party to hang it on and then I'm still responsible up-front -- but they will try to recover my money. So, I hope we won't be seeing any $20,000 Corollas on the old Amex card.
Sorry this is so long. Emails may be sparse. We split one 64K ISDN line between 80+ users (including Internet). Outlook times-out every time I try to use it. It is 6:00 pm everyone went home at 4:30 - so its just me and the Wolfgangs guarding the gates - we don't even lock the doors. Something about 2 twenty foot cyclone fences with concertina wire and the most frightening electrical fence you've ever imagined running between them. These people understood security.
07-11-99 - My Travel Cold
I will try to call Sunday afternoon. Don't change your plans. I might need jacket, sweat shirt, Sudafed and Drixoral. Got a cold on the plane or serious allergies here. I'll talk later.
I miss you. The resort and the apartment is beautiful. You should start thinking of when you can come down. Very comparable to say Lincoln City, Ore or Ocean Shores except that you are surrounded by shanty towns - very sad. Literally millions of people living shacks made up from the world's castoffs.
07-21-99 - First Tour of the Facility and Visit to a Township
Pretty quiet here. Caught cold on the flight and I'm just getting over it. The buildings in Cape Town are generally not heated so it has been a challenge to stay as warm as you would like when recovering from a cold.
Of course all the medicines here are different - no aspirin, Advil, Drixoral. They take medicines here in water. Everything is like Alka-Seltzer - yuck!
Country is beautiful. Weather is much more erratic than Seattle Spring or San Francisco. Rains & Wind one day and night - then beautiful.
The facility
I've been getting to work a few minutes later (about 8:10). Nothing like the glisten of sunshine off the concertina wire to say good morning. The site is on a plateau (at least 1,500 feet). We climb a pass that goes from sea level to 450M (1,300 feet) in one dog leg of probably 1 1/2 miles.
Walked around the building the other day while my students had a meeting - democracy is practiced at every opportunity. Its kind of spooky - you can look in offices and launch control rooms and its as if everyone is out on break (for 5 years). There are telexes with messages in them, waste baskets partially full and office "stuff" like cups, pens, calendars just sitting where someone used them last. I'm learning enough Dutch or Afrikaner to recognize "This is a gas area - run if bell rings". Yeah like where?
The engineering and quality of construction of this place is impressive. There is a pair of doors that appear to be concrete maybe 25 feet tall by 12 feet wide by 2 feet thick - that swing out to open. They open almost silently into a sound proofed chamber.
I bump into some of the remaining staff once in awhile. The maintenance / physical plant people are pretty nice and helpful. The few techies (older) don't seem too happy about the current situation. They refer to us as "the others" - I'm apparently an other so it may not be racist. The security force is primarily black and seem to be nice, friendly, etc.
It is truly beautiful up here in the sunshine. It is a mountain top called "High Rising". The valleys contain farms, forests and lakes (reservoirs). Have seen a few deer like creatures - Dave just about hunting size - you know about the size of a greyhound. They tell me there are some big ass snakes in the woods. Supposedly, the building or parking lot perimeter emits a tone or wavy pattern to keep them out of the building and from under our cars. Now I don't know if somebody bought a load of crap and is passing it on to me - but I've lost all interest in walking off into the brush. My students actually told me about the snakes after I walked out into the woods to look at a concrete enclosure - actually a door into the ground.
The terrain reminds me of Wenatchee, Ellensburg canyon and the summit of Snoqualmie Pass. Lots of apple orchards and reforestation. It looks like they learned (like Washington State) that natures renewable resource will only sustain itself if you don't cut all the trees at once.
Township visit
Went to a get together at a club in one of the townships Saturday evening with Mpafane. Very interesting. Great people - trying to organize an Alumni Association for the University they attended. Drank SA beer, ate mutton in curry (I now know what the funny smell is everywhere) and generally had a good time.
Its interesting to meet people who were Political Science majors not to become lawyers but to be involved in the political process of their country. Very bright, friendly and some hellacious scars I probably really don't want to know about.
The "club" is like most of the other houses - visualize an 18' by 24' rectangle divided into four equal size rooms. This is an older building - you start with a 9' by 24' two rooms and as you can afford it you add up to two rooms. The kitchen is out the back door covered in plastic fluted material - like we might cover a deck. Fridge, sink & stove are all there - the rain comes in. The restrooms (each with a single commode and enough floor to put your feet) are down a maze of outdoor walkways to the alley - looks like they are shared by several dwellings.
There are literally hundreds (maybe thousands) of these little houses in rows with small yards (space) around them. In the township they are block construction - as you move out they are wood and eventually shacks of castoff materials. The roads are unpaved and have names like NE133 which I think is a grid pattern - you need directions (you stop often) because there are no signs or house numbers.
As you drive through there are literally hundreds (maybe thousands) of people out and on the move (no vehicles). Small groups of families walking, groups of men talking maybe drinking, kids playing, groups of middle age and older women in there finest walking - like maybe to church except I didn't see any churches. If it weren't for the extreme poverty it looks like a "Cleaver-type" neighborhood of the 50s.
While very land intensive (all structures are single floor), I suspect it is considerably better than our high-rise ghettos. Each person owns a home with a small amount of land. They are truly neighborhoods - more than mine at least. I understand a non-white can buy a two-room house in the township for about R10,000 or $1,600.
The shanties are often squatters - I think. Many of the residents come out of the bush with their goats, cattle, etc. They return to the surrounding brush to gather firewood each day. Some incredibly old people dragging sticks.
Well, I probably better get back to work.
Bob
07-22-99 - Trouble's Brewing
Just a note to tell you that I love and miss you. I really need my wife to keep an eye on me. I'm still sick. I got so cold and miserable yesterday that I went right to bed when I got home at 8:00 and almost couldn't get moving this morning.
I need to pick up some vitamins. Any word on the sweatshirt?
Love you
07-23-99 - Things are Heating Up
I'm usually home by 7:00, I've been catching a nap and then going to get something to eat (twice since getting here).
I am sicker than a dog. What I thought was allergies is apparently a cold or the flu. Yesterday I lost bladder control - I hope it comes back. When I first feel anything at all I better be heading to the room - even then I'm likely to get a shower and absolutely no sensation (or control) until I'm done. Then I have parts that feel like they're being deep-fried. If I was a braver fool, I'd think I had the clap or something like it.
Otherwise, everything is going OK. Email is the pits - mostly down. No reference books. Its like camping naked.
Other than that, I'm having a heck of a time. My students are nice. Not overly motivated. Very intelligent. Truly naive in many ways - one asked if I speak Afrikaans. When I said no, she seemed surprised. She then asked "Don't you know any black people in America?" Oh well.
Bob
07-29-99 - A traveler's 2nd greatest fear
First: One always worries about getting involved in violence of some type like terrorism, war, mugging, etc.
Second: Has to be being hospitalized in a foreign country.
Last Thursday I thought that I might die. I was so cold that I ached all over. There wasn't a part of me that didn't hurt. Went home at 7:00 pm and went to bed. Could barely crawl out of bed at 8:00 am Friday. Went to work - no one to call to tell I couldn't come in. Besides, how bad can it get?
Friday night got home at 5:00 pm and went to bed. Chris & Jared called from Seattle some time Saturday - no clue when or if I finished talking to them. By 3:30 pm a friend (Mpafane) called to check on me and offered to take me to a clinic so that I could get checked out and get some meds.
By 5:00 I was firmly in place in my hospital bed with an IV running. I have some kind of kidney infection - I thought from my experience with cats it just meant I needed to eat more lamb or something like that.
Starting to think I will live by Sunday mid-day and checked out basically healthy Tuesday at noon. Still got a sore kidney and taking drugs. Did I say that bladder control has returned?
OK so that is the short and dirty summary. Sorry, I didn't call. When I should have - I couldn't. When I could - I thought I would be out the next day and send this. Kind of like the guy that stays out drinking too late - do you call and tell everyone your OK, or do you just wait 'till you get home? Your going to catch hell either way.
South African Health Care
Now some details. South African health care does not need to take a back seat to anyone. I've spent many a night with my ex in hospitals and paid more than my share of med bills so I have some experience in this area.
Now just follow along and try to visualize this at your local hospital.
First of all the clinic, Somerset West, does everything but open-heart surgery. It is a very well appointed small hospital serving several sea-side communities.
So an old fat white guy and a short black guy wander into the entry area and are directed to the Casualty Entrance (Emergency Room). At the counter I ask (I'm the white guy) if they could look at an American with the flu. They ask for my name (I've been here before) and then they take me to a treatment bed. Nurse takes all the vitals, collects the necessary sample (which is no problem at this point - I'm thinking somebody grafted a fountain to me anyway) and collect blood. 10 minutes max I'm talking to Dr. Visser (pronounced Fisser) who is gently poking, prodding and asking questions.
A few minutes into this and the nurse brings in a slip of paper for him. Test results confirm I have an infection - specifically a kidney infection. So now he's explaining what needs to be done - at some point I realize he's talking about admitting me.
Now keep in mind at this point all they know about me is the name I gave them and whatever they can garner from blood and urine. No forms. No insurance cards. No five family members and a priest vouching for me. So I ask the big guy "How much is this going to cost?". He walks away - comes back in 2 minutes says it will be a minimum of R2,000 (Rand) assuming 2 days stay - that’s like $325 including the ER visit. They do take Amex and I'm ready to stay - they didn't even ask for my card.
But then a snag comes up. My car will be in the lot for 2-3 days – they suggest it will probably be stolen. So, I have to drive Mpafane to his place so he can get his car, follow me to my lockup and I pickup some personal items. At this point the clinic still has only my name and is assuming (trusting) I will return. He brings me back to the hospital. When I give them my local address and a local contact (Mpafane) and I'm checked in. I was even able to walk to my room.
Great room - small but nice (private). Great care. Nurses (1 yr degrees) and Sisters (4yr degrees) as well as nursing assistants checked on me constantly. TV is included. A huge bathroom.
Slept until Dr Visser came in Sunday morning. Said I mentioned in ER that this had happened to me a couple times before - boy was I messed up. Anyway, I told him that I had passed a kidney stone on three occasions so he asked what my IPG showed? My what? IPG (I think) is a series of x-rays you always have if there is a chance you've passed a kidney stone - so you know if it is a random normal small stone or if you have a build-up at the mouth of the kidney waiting to fall into you urinary track and cause serious problems.
When I said I had never had such a thing - he asked why I hadn't seen a doctor when I passed the stones. When I said I did for the first two - he asked why I didn't have the IPG(?). He's not getting that under our current "managed neglect" system my doctor has a financial incentive to not suggest expensive tests. Keep in mind that South Africa is a single-payer (govt) cradle to grave "managed care" country. Long and the short is I set up to have the series done Monday morning - by now it is obvious I'm going to be in until Tuesday anyway because the infection is still high.
X-Ray facilities were nice. Nothing like lying on a cold glass table at 8:00 am. They inject some iodine, wait about 10 minutes and start shooting. It apparently lights up your whole kidney-bladder system. They gave me the films and said to keep them with my other medical stuff - so have I got some slides for you when I get home. I see my Christmas card now. Techs were great. The X-Ray doctor that approved the X-Rays had to come in and confirm that I had passed stones before and had not had the test - He asked where was I from anyway? When I told him, he just looked at me like he wasn't sure if I was playing with him, or what?
End of Story: Four Days of excellent care. ER visit. X-Ray series. Lab work. R5,400 (about $900). Anita could I have gotten out of the ER at Memorial for that?
I'll probably submit it to Blue Cross when I get back - I'm sure they will reject it because I failed to check first with my Primary Care physician, didn't get all the necessary pre-approval forms and didn't say Mother-May-I but what the hell - its probably still less than my out-of-pocket portion if I had it done here. Which of course assumes they would have admitted me being only half dead.
Long winded. Thought this would be the end to my story.
Visitors
Tuesday at about 3:00 pm I'm napping on the couch - been out 3 hours. Get a call - my students want to stop by and wish me well. They travel in a bus to the training site (25 miles) from their apartment. At 5:00 30+ young adults (remember all college grads) stop into my little apartment. Thought I was going to cry - damn near did. They were great. They've been great yesterday & today. I could stay here. I really, really like this.
Now I'm done. Time to go home. Maybe pick-up a Blue Owl Burger on the way home. Meat is Al Halaal (Islamic Kosher). The spices are from India. They claim they are world famous for it. I couldn't even recognize much of it. The fried egg was obvious - but the Veggies and olives were new to me. Hell maybe it will catch on in the states.
Goodbye until next time.
Bob
The hospital actually called me a few days later to tell me there had been an error on my bill - I knew this was too good to be true. It seems a couple prescriptions didn't come in until after I discharged and wanted to get my permission to hit my credit card for another $14.00. Back home the call alone would have cost $80.00.
It should be pointed out that I would not have been denied care if I was unable to pay. I was the only one that ever brought up cost and payment methods. The Business Office woman seemed truly surprised that I was planning to pay. What a concept?
Dr. Vissar is a member of The Islamic Medical Association of South Africa, for over 25 years virtually the only health care available in the townships. One of the nicest, most thorough and thoughtful people I've ever met. He hadn't expected that I would choose to go to his clinic for my follow-up care. Each trip involved an exam, blood and urine tests, some message treatment for pain and a baggie with my pain killers (just like the 60s). When I asked desk what to pay, the doctor came out and explained that I didn't need to pay, but if I would it would replace the medications and supplies I incurred and therefore not deplete the supply for his regular patients. Cost: $8.00 per visit for about 30 minutes of his uninterrupted time.
07-30-99 Just some South Africa tidbits
Short day today. Only work until noon. Might go back to bed - or might go to the Mall.
Just some South Africa tidbits.
Beautiful day today down on the coast.
Sunny and nice today. It is trying to warm up. It felt good to drive here this morning in the sun rise. The trees, valleys and vegetation were terrific. Light traffic - in 25 miles I maybe pass 6-10 vehicles / 2-4 pass me. Not bad for National Highway #2. Highways are really very well built and maintained here.
Still in the clouds up here on the mountain at 11:30 am. Its kind of eerie to drive through. You know its just fog, but it sure seems dense. Worked until 9:00 last night and had to drive in it - very spooky. Roads are excellent but winding - lots of elevation changes. So you are traveling along at 120 KMH in the clear - turn a corner and you are in the clouds with visibility zero. Lots of little eyes glowing in the dark as you drive - some low to the ground / some not so low.
I see signs that say not to feed the baboons - but no baboons yet. I suspect its like bears in the parks at home. There probably aren't any but don't feed one if you find one. I'm not sure why I would feed a baboon, but hey I've been warned.
Much of the roads are single lane each way with extra lanes for grades and hazardous areas. The rest of the time you move to the shoulder of the road so people can pass. The shoulders are paved 6-8 feet and well maintained. So now not only am I driving on the wrong side of the road in a Corolla with all the controls in the wrong places, I'm expected to drive on the shoulder of the road. Oh, and by the way that is where the masses walk - even in the middle of the night, miles from anywhere and there are still hundreds of people walking, standing or hitching.
I've watched a shanty town develop in the last two weeks. Right on top of a mountain ridge in an area logged recently (weeks) the houses started to show up last week. By yesterday there must be 40 up and many more under construction. Unlike the government constructions, these look more like the pictures of old mining towns. The basic South African two-room design (maybe 8' x 16') covered using the first cuts from a saw mill. These are were they are getting a flat surface for later cuts - so the scrap is a plank 8" wide by 8-10' long, flat on one side - the bark on the other. The roofs are plastic sheeting. No foundations and apparently no floors.
When it is sunny and bright it is a beautiful place with great views, close to the road. On the other hand, it appears to be 5 miles from anywhere and on the foggy days it is totally hidden. I have to believe that when the winds blow rain it will be one miserable place to be. I don't know if it is a spontaneous or planned development. Already, I see the farm trucks stopping each morning to pick up pruning crews.
I'd like to say that I'm falling in love with my Toyota Corolla - of course I'd also like to say I'm driving a Mercedes. This little thing is well built, pretty efficient - costs about $20.00 per tank for fuel about once each week. Getting in and out of it still amazes me - creating images of the magic of childbirth. Once inside you unlock the transmission (key), put an electronic plug in something called the immobilizer, after 5 seconds you remove the plug and can now start the ignition. All of this for a mere R5,200 per month ($844).
Car theft is a serious problem here. Theft of all kinds is a problem. Both the power company and the phone company are hit by people stealing their wire - from their poles. Yesterday they caught some poachers with a couple truck loads of stolen wire when one truck got a flat tire and locals called the cops. Telcom (national phone company) missed some serious delivery promises and risks losing part of the three years remaining on their monopoly - their excuse was wire poaching.
Houwteq Revisited
Talking about wires visualize those big high voltage transmission lines that run from the Columbia River to the coast. Now two sets of those towers come onto the complex where our training site is located. For the 10 miles you drive in from the road, you can see these two sets of towers converging together about 1/2 mile from the buildings. At that point they go into this huge junction / transformer area and come out as a single even bigger set of towers. These connect to our building and stop. Apparently launching rockets consumes a lot of energy.
Apparently several (4) of the buildings are launch silos. They look like good size schools or ski lodges - but can apparently retract to expose the silos. I guess that might take a fair amount of juice.
About the snakes on the complex. I'm still not sure if I am getting the strait skinny on it yet but I'm told they are 6+ feet long and members of the Cobra family - Black Mambas. I'm not sure I'm buying this yet - but the picnic is on hold until I get more info. It would seem that at this time of the year they've got to be hibernating.
The building next to us is the Fire Station I think - nothing is marked. But it has 4 huge bay doors and I don't know - it just looks like that kind of building. It is huge. Its so spooky because everything is still sitting the ways it was when they shut down. The whole place has the feeling that you just came in on an off shift. Mpafane is trying to get permission to let me bring my camera on site to get pics of my students and the view - haven't heard yet.
Our landlord is technically Denel which is the national defense company (they also had the satellite & rocket business). They are trying to be privatized and need the Govt's approval on a couple arms sales to make the deal feasible – the US and Israel are lobbying against it. I guess free markets aren't needed in the arms business. I try to be friendly with the on-site people (apparently about 18) hoping to eventually get a tour. It isn't working. They don't seem to find me as charming as I see myself. Being the only other white guy on site doesn't cut me any slack either.
What's weird is down in the "Dutch" communities, I fit right in. Everybody is friendly. But up here, they know that I'm not one of them.
I plan to lay around and take it easy this weekend. Try to shake any remnants for this infection. I'm still not sure I know what happened. I had a Kidney infection but the virus is a strain of e-coli. I thought I was paying attention.
08-03-99 - Just Checking in
You can sure tell when you Americans start to get out of bed. Hotmail (MSN) is pretty decent until about 1:00pm here - About the time the East Coast (USA) starts to get moving. Until then we compete only with Europe, Africa and the serious gear-heads in the USA. Until about 6:00pm (here) it stays busy when the Europeans and Africans start to sign-off. Usually I email early (9:00am - midnight your time) and then again about 6:00pm. Today I will be going to a memorial service at 6:00 so I am trying to get this out before I leave (4:30).
Afternoon went much better than the morning.
Monday is a National Holiday (probably should check which one). So, I have a three day weekend - may plan a trip to see some of the country.
Next Friday (the 13th) Cisco has a little "dog & pony" show scheduled in Cape Town so we will be attending that for half day - hardly worth the trip back, so we will probably go to lunch and then back to Gordon's Bay. It looks like I will get to meet Bob Lewis (Cisco - Europe / Africa / Middle East person) who lined me up for this job. Wants my read on the program and what is needed - most of you would know better than to ask. Sounds like a 3-day work week to me!
Have a good day. Thinking of you and missing you.
08-04-99 - Sad News Today
One of our students was killed last night. Sharen Badri was found dead near a phone booth a short distance from the student's apartments. After some confusion he was pronounced dead when he arrived at the hospital. No real word on what happened. Some speculate he might have been hit by a car or beaten. Apparently he was not robbed.
His father and brother are traveling to Strand today from Durbin about 500 miles (I think). It will be there job to drive their dead son / brother home in their family car.
I don't know why I am burdening you with this. Sharen (shu rin - emphasis on the 2nd syllable) was the first student to talk to me. He was friendly and outgoing. He was unique in that his ancestry was clearly Arabic whereas the rest of my students are black. Like the rest he was incredibly bright with several degrees. He was a bit of a loner and appeared a little more worldly than the others. The students have held a couple sessions today with discussion and prayers - most are handling it much better than me. At 24 this shouldn't be happening, but it is a part of life in Africa - not totally unlike the US I guess.
I will write tomorrow when I can be more upbeat.
08-05-99 - A Bad Day on the Mountain Top
Went to the memorial service last night for Badri. About 50+ people present - all developed and presented by the residents (students). Many of the students are very religious and several are "ministers" in their own right. They did an excellent job. It was held in the recreation room at their building (25' x 40'). Mpafane and I were probably the only ones there over 26. I think it was very effective.
One of the female students who is maybe 5' tall and solid but not heavy lead the singing from her seat. She would start and the other women would harmonize. The men did not seem to sing. I've never heard anyone sing so beautifully and so forcefully (loudly) with no electronic enhancement - or instrumental accompaniment. I felt I could see the walls shake with the sound. I was pretty much OK with things until then. They did about six hymns during the service and each was a another wild ride of emotions. It was so well executed, that I assume they are traditional hymns and method of delivery. Gospel tunes in English but unknown to me.
My students to a person are very quiet and soft spoken - but singing and praying are apparently two exceptions. One of my students, Setololwane "Joe" Phago, lead two of the prayers that were both strong and in a cadence that just drew you in. Jesse Jackson could learn from this man's delivery - and yet I can't hear a word he says in class.
The word we got today was that Badri died of massive heart failure. The most obvious cause of massive heart failure of an apparently healthy 24 year old in the states (drugs) would clearly not apply in this case. They feel it was a birth defect. The speculation is that he was running from one apartment house to the other and his heart gave out so quickly that he went face down into the pavement resulting in the face, arm and knee injuries. The Ministry of Communications (our boss) requested the report - but it is not a public document for us to see. It is weird that a death under suspicious circumstance - only became a police matter when the people who took Badri to the hospital filed police reports. The Police were not called to the scene - they wouldn't have come anyway for the death of a black man. Only after the Ministry's request was any testing done on the body to determine cause - without it he would have been sent home to Durbin with no investigation at all.
Many students are questioning the report, but seem to be accepting the finality of the results - the acceptance of a people not expecting a full measure of justice anyway. There was none of the pronouncements and pontificating that I would expect within a group of similar individuals in the states. Not a single person saying "lets go to the police a find out what is going on". It is very difficult (but I am managing) to just keep my mouth shut and watch. I suspect this will become a major "set point" in my attitudes towards many things and people.
The funeral is at 1:00 pm today in Durbin. The Ministry is covering all costs and paid for two student representatives to fly with the body to attend the services. For a bureaucracy that takes three months to buy books - they clearly stepped up to the plate when they were needed this week.
08-06-99 It's Beautiful Here - Wish You Were Here
Yesterday and today were beautiful. Sun's out and it warms up nicely by mid morning. I'm thinking of taking a little trip this weekend and maybe get some pictures. May just lay around if the weather goes south on me.
Picked up one of the local pineapples yesterday. They are about the size of a softball. Good and ripe - delicious. I've been eating tomatoes daily. They must be local to SA - they are everywhere. Same with avocados - ugh and bananas. Between bananas, tomatoes, oranges, satsumas, pineapples and instant noodles I manage t avoid restaurants several days each week.
They never told me there is no Dr Pepper here. What the hell kind of civilized country is this anyway. They have something called "Iron Brew" that looks like the Dr Pepper can (same colors) but I haven't had the courage to try it yet. Still looking for a decent orange juice - there are some truly terrible orange drinks out there. And what's the deal with whole milk - for a guy raised on 2% this stuff is pretty thick. Not bad on my Bokomo flakes with raisins (or bananas) but a little tough straight from the glass.
For somebody who drifted away from alcohol about 20 years ago, I am developing a taste for local drafts. A schooner (probably 24 oz) is R5,50 or $0.92 - actually cheaper by the ounce than Coke in most restaurants.
The people are nuts about Rugby here - I'm trying to get into it (the alternative is soccer). Any time of the day or night you can find either Rugby or Soccer on TV on two channels (out of maybe 5 or 6). I went into a sports bar the other night and they had a chalk board promoting this Saturday's Rugby match with the Australian "All Blacks" (don't know what that means yet). The game's at like 6:30 am (as compared to 18:30) so to entice a crowd the special is: 4 Schooners for R10 ($1.67) including 4 other things three of which I didn't recognize - but Blow Jobs was the second item. I couldn't bring myself to ask any of the help to explain the sign - so I might have to get up early to see if I can figure it out. I'm sure it is some little quaint Afrikaner pastry - I'll keep you informed.
Honestly, it is a bit of a pain in the rear when you look so much like the old oppressors. In the shops and restaurants the older blacks (over 25) are leery of me and the whites think I'm one of them. Everybody speaks first to me in Afrikaan (mix of Dutch and native languages) - I should try to learn a little of the language. But, I'm still trying to learn the English they speak down here. The other night I stood in front of a Deli counter while the guy went on merrily explaining all the fine items he had (in English) - I didn't catch a single word. I ended up with a nice selection - no clue what they were, but some had meat, some had vegetables, one had snails (they don't bother with calling them escargot here). I ended up eating Ox Tails the week before for the same reason - not bad really. I'm still saving the "Butt Hump" special for another night. I have figured out that peri-peri is liquid pepper sauce.
Apartheid Revisited
They really need a generation to pass very quickly here. The transition is very tough on some people. Apparently the Western Cape province (one of nine) was the original seat of power for Apartheid and was the only province to not endorse the new government's win. Local govt is still dominated (or greatly influenced) by the Nationalist Party (NP). Many white people are having difficulty as resources are shifted. While they (we) represent only 11% of the country's population, they used to get about 85% of the tax resources and virtually all good jobs and appointments. A redistribution of tax resources means a serious reduction in services to white areas and they equate it with being cheated out of what is rightfully theirs.
The redirection of the National Police (Security Forces) is another issue. Until "the change", the Security Force's primary function was to suppress black insurrection and generally to keep the majority population from becoming a nuisance to the the minority. The problem is that they are inadequately trained in criminal investigation, drug control, fraud control, etc. They are changing but it takes time and will. Many are still trying to work out amnesty deals with the "Truth Commission" hearings that are going on.
If the world in general, and places like Kosovo in particular, want to learn to "forgive and forget" they should be coming to South Africa and look into the "Truth Commission" processes. If there was ever a majority with a legitimate reason to be pissed, these people would get my vote. They are truly trying to offer a "come forward and confess and all will be forgiven" policy - just don't make us come looking for you. Some one-time high level implementers are now coming forward to save themselves - and naming names (and places and dates).
It seems like every day new stories come up. The most recent is the head of the Apartheid government's program to "chemically" deal with the unrest program - I'm not talking Cocaine here but Sarin-type gas in camps. Scary stuff. The government just confiscated like eleven of this guys properties - and he's mad. What amazes me is that most of these old "killers" are still living here - haven't they figured out that is what Argentina is for.
One guy is trying to get absolution for throwing a couple hundred people out of airplanes over the ocean. In five years hasn't he even considered that this might not be just over looked. That maybe it was time to move-on.
If they can just get a few more years past them and a little foreign investment to grow the economy, they may make the transition with out the suffering of their neighbors to the north. The ANC (African National Congress) is really trying to include everyone including the 11 or 12 tribal groups in building the future.
Nelson Mandela was a master at this and his replacement is following the same path. I would hope that maybe Mandela in his retirement could team up with the likes of Jimmy Carter and real change could occur around the world. I'll tell you it is incredibly nice to not have the media slicing and dicing the political leaders here on a daily basis. There is a civility that we have forgotten.
If anyone wants to talk about Apartheid, I'd be happy to share some of what I learned and heard. While we have our skeletons in this area, these people institutionalized it throughout all levels of society and implement scientific methods to apply it. Anyone that assumes apartheid was like what happened here has grossly underestimated the evil depths a society can sink to when oppression becomes national policy.
08-13-99 - More Facility News
Sorry to cut off in mid thought last night, but I had three students here at the facility working on projects. We were originally going to be here until 6:00, but they weren't done - so I thought I could squeeze out some thoughts. We finished a little before 7:00 - not quite dark yet.
It's been so nice out that I've been walking around the grounds looking at stuff. Wish I had the guts to bring a camera in here. I've asked for permission - but no response yet. I'm not holding my breath. As most of you know I'm pretty distrustful of police in general - but these security guys and the SA Police put an extra knot in my colon. I walked down to a low building near the middle of the complex. It was a kennel for probably 20-24 pretty good sized dogs. Each had a door to the outside that seemed to be mechanized. It looks like all or part could be released remotely. All of this inside a double fenced perimeter with the scariest electrified fence running between the two fences. It is not immediately clear whether the fences were to keep people out or prevent someone from getting out - I suspect it would work equally as well either way.
A couple interesting things: The area within the complex - no idea how big maybe 7 to 10 miles in from the first gate - is reforested pine trees ranging from 10-20 years old. The trees are planted on a grid - in rows and columns - you can see clear through some very large areas. You could not sneak up on this place through the woods. If you look closely out in the woods you can see quite a few man hole covers on concrete pads (4' square) - out in the middle of nowhere. Some are more than 100' from the road or anything else - I can see. Haven't taken a closer look because we still haven't cleared up the Cobra issue yet. Warm weather / warm rocks / cold-blooded creatures - I'm just not that curious.
As I told you earlier, the place is meant to look like a school and farm houses from the air - so the nosey Russian spy satellites would miss it (I've forgotten most of my cold war bullshit - did the Russians have spy satellites? And why would they care about South Africa?). Any way it appears that much of the grounds were originally landscaped and maintained. They have all reforested naturally in the past 5-6 years but you can still see what was suppose to be a soccer field, decorative berms with lots of trees, shrubs and flowers. Plus a pretty major in-the-ground irrigation system - it looks like fire hose size faucets and large hose caddies scattered everywhere. I think it is more than ironic that it might actually become a school.
Last week before the weather warmed up, the Israeli's were here teaching some Satellite technology classes. I'm not sure if it's guidance stuff or communications. They were even less prepared than I for the cold - they were in some pretty light suits and ties. Every time I saw them just standing around they appeared to be freezing their fannies. The new government still supports Satellite training - but I'm sure they have no plans to return to the building and launching business.
08-16-99 - Creatures
As I walked in today a twig apparently stuck to the wall caught my attention. About 6" long crooked and about 1/8" thick. As I watched it (from about 3 feet) a leg popped out from along the body (3" very thin). Eventually, as it became convinced I wasn't going to pass on by, 5 more legs appeared. Some kind of insect - even with legs extended it still looked like a twig with legs.
Strange looking creatures in South Africa. From lizards of all sizes, many of which look like they are wearing bright colored armor, to Springboks - deer the size of a small dog that run fast and jump maybe 20 feet at a time. Oh and ostriches, real live running free ostriches.
Baboons are not as scarce as a I thought. They are not cute cuddly creatures, they are menacing and afraid of only one thing - cobras. I have seen then run up and grab food, accessories and clothing from unsuspecting tourists. As I was driving to work the other day, near the new shanty town, an adult stopped in front of my car and literally challenged my while it's young crossed safely behind. It would be a serious mistake to get out of the car or provoke them. I've seen more than one car window smashed in by a baboon that wanted something inside. They are clearly caught between being hungry and on the menu in the townships.
08-18-99 - Living and Eating
Moved to another apartment Monday (Jerri has the numbers) because the new tile floor in my original unit buckled and popped up. I thought tile was forever. The new unit has a nicer view - two sides from the terrace face the harbor, bay and Cape Town - but it is a little smaller and has seen heavier use in the past (picky).
Saturday I finally stopped at one of the street vendors and bought oranges. Bag of 32 navels a little larger than a tennis ball - R8 ($1.33). A dozen tangerines (the little things at Christmas - Satsumas, I think) - R2 $0.36. So I'm eating lots of oranges, the other things all went Saturday, and bananas. Hey, I finally bought one of those little pineapples Saturday. It looked so cool in my kitchen Saturday and then Sunday - then I finally had to admit I had no real clue how to get the yellow stuff out. I assumed a knife was in order, so I set out with all the confidence one might skin a porcupine (does anyone do that?). Remembering that it use to come in rings helped a lot. It was great - juice everywhere. Just your basic single serving size pineapple.
Still trying to come to grips with Cape Town cooking. Actually trying to come to grips with stuff like home cooked in Cape Town. Had some great ribs Sunday night - maybe not on a par with Tom's Ribs in Texas but very tasty. Monday I went to a restaurant and tried their "Carvery" - like an upscale version of the guy that stood at the end of the buffet at Royal Fork. Had beef, pork, lamb and vegetables - all cooked to death. Probably the most expensive meal I've had here - and second only to the Chinese dinner for worst.
Returned to my pizza parlor (below my apt) last night - decided on three "starters" and no main course. I usually resist the temptation because the starters are priced so low they can't be making anything on it - how's that a fat guy with a conscience worrying about a food vendor. Anyway I had a huge French salad (lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, carrots, radishes. All the goodies except olives and feta cheese - that would be a Greek salad). You'd be amazed at what I'm learning - I'm just glad to have another "f" adjective for salad. Then I had 6 mussels in wine and cheese sauce - I think when they don't know what something is suppose to taste like they drown it in a white cheese sauce. Last but not least I had a platter of fried mushrooms. The mushrooms and mussels each come with a medium size pita - a thin medium pizza crust with maybe butter and some nice spices. Like a SA version of a tortilla - except they know nothing about Mexican food. Add three beers (more than I drank total in the 10 years before coming to SA) and tip: R50 ($8.33). See why I feel guilty? The whole thing would actually have made a very nice meal for two people.
I met Greg's (the owner) wife last night. Very nice. They look like your basic Dutch-South African couple that would own a pizza parlor in a marina. I usually have the mushroom soup - cooked while you wait with lots of mushrooms. It seems he spent some time in Thailand in the 60s and 70s and mushrooms are one of the things he acquired a taste for. Ray & Patricia maybe you guys crossed paths with him.
How's this for luck. My back has been bothering me since my hospital stay. Too much flat back time. (That and a butthead blocking my driver's door with a Honda Passport. If you have trouble visualizing me getting into a Toyota Corolla through the driver's door - try the passenger door, over the console. I was so pissed by the time I got in, I had completely forgotten to kick the crap out of the Honda. I think I'm losing basic communications skills now.) So I keep looking for aspirin or something with an anti-inflammatory. Everything here is different. Bayer is here but they apparently don't sell aspirin. I've tried pills, capsules, mix in water stuff (yeck) and gums. So last night, I asked my waitress if they sold any Tylenol (like the little 2 tablet packs). No but she had something that might help - I remember that line from the 60s. Anyway red & green capsules big enough for a horse and three beers and the world has been a much better place. Seems she is a pharmaceutical rep during the daytime.
I better get back to work now.
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